Fashion Influential #46: Charles F. Worth
A portrait of Charles Frederick Worth, the father of haute couture, and two gowns from his collections in the late 19th century. Photos via AllPosters.com and MetMuseum.org.
CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH
Born:
October 13, 1825 in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England
Died:
March 10, 1895 in Paris, France
Innovations:
Fashion "collections," using live models, dressmaking as an art form
Fans:
Empress Eugénie of France, Sarah Bernhardt, Lillie Langtry, Nellie Melba, Jenny Lind, Cora Pearl
Beginnings.
Worth began his fashion career as an apprentice and clerk for two different London textile merchants, and it was there that he began learning about the technical aspects of making clothing. He gained a thorough understanding of fabric and business, visiting various galleries and collections to study portraits painted of historical figures, which would ultimately serve as inspiration for his own designs.
Career Highs.
After moving to Paris and starting to work for Gagelin, a prominent firm selling textile goods and ready-to-wear pieces, Worth quickly became the company's leading salesman. His designs for the firm won prizes at the Great Exhibition in London and the Exposition Universelle in Paris, allowing Worth to open his own company in 1858. Given the high demand for luxury goods under the Second Empire, Worth's business boomed, and he became a dressmaker for Empress Eugénie, Napoleon III's wife.
Worth never wanted to change his own ideas, and it was almost impossible to get him to agree to a modification or change in one of his toilettes. As a rule, it was the sovereign who gave way.
- Worth's obituary in the newspaper Le Gaulois.
Empress Eugenie of France.Career Lows.
Worth built his couture firm, the House of Worth, into a successful enterprise towards the end of the 19th century, and after his death, his sons took over the family business, continuing their father's aesthetic. But when Worth's great-grandson Jean-Charles retired in 1952, the House of Worth ended its reign in the fashion industry.
Legacy.
Worth was the first high-profile designer to design clothing with a historical eye (Empress Eugénie had a deep admiration for Marie Antoinette). He created custom articles for his famous clients, of course, but he also designed "collections" of clothing, which were worn by live models. Almost every fashion powerhouse since Worth has continued to organize their business this way, so Worth's influence gave him the grandiose title of the "Father of Haute Couture."
A Worth gown from 1872. Get the Look.
Worth's creations are all heavily adorned with luxury fabrics and meticulous detail, in typical couture fashion. His gowns are dramatic and stately, historically elegant with superb construction. If you have a fancy occasion, choose a long gown with lavish fabric, traditional lines and ornate embellishment.
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