Always a stimulator of the optical senses, Custo Barcelona introduced this season's collection at Lincoln Center in New York with flair and vibrancy. Brothers David and Custodio Dalmau showcased their fearlessness as designers and their willingness to make a statement without compromise. This is one collection that should have a disclaimer that reads "Purchase only if possessed with the swagger of a rockstar", since that’s the only persona that could pull this one off. It’s rebellious, edgy and over-the-top, making it impossible to look away as unexpected combinations dominated the runway. The title of the show, "Clean… but not really", is a reference to the designer's original intention and aesthetics at the line's founding : "We started this project on a palette of clean colors that are not usual", he explained backstage before the show. "From there, we work a lot of details into each piece to achieve a sophisticated, contemporary language at the end". Was it clean ? Or even sophisticated ? Not really. The engorged knits that Custo Dalmau called "three-dimensional" took the form of bulky sweaters, which, off the runway and on the rack, could have a punky afterlife. While it carried entertaining cuts and silhouettes, the collection was strongly about prints, graphics, patterns and an amazing combination of material stories where wool is the champion fabric, presented in the form of felt with varying fringes and graphic jacquards. "Be daring enough to own your style or shop somewhere else" is what the collection screams : for the fashion faint, this collection is not. These styles aren’t for just anyone; one must be a show stopper to pull them off, especially the fur cut-out sweater. Yes, this wasn't for the faint of heart. But the label never has been. Over the years, Custo Dalmau has carved himself a niche and done what he intended : created a contemporary language all his own. The house was packed with those eager to hear what he had to say. Good for him ! Custo Barcelona has celebrated its 30th anniversary this year. That's pretty extraordinary, when you think about the relative newborn status of many of his fellow labels. Some labels mellow as they age; not this one.