TOKYO — A common complaint among Europeans in Tokyo used to be how hard it was to find a decent baguette. Now, says the French graphic artist Jean Pierre Dardenne: “Every time I go back to France, I’m surprised at how mediocre the bread tastes. Tokyo boulangeries have spoiled me.” True, Mr. Dardenne lives in a choice neighborhood, sandwiched between bustling Shibuya and chic Aoyama, stomping grounds of the city’s fashion elite. These days, however, Mr. Dardenne says his concerns have shifted...
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