Make Your Own Handmade Soaps, Shampoos, Bath and Body Products
Articles re. soapmaking - soap bars, liquid soaps, shampoos, shower gels etc. Instructions on how to make various kinds of soap. Descriptions of the ingredients used and how to use them.
Oxides
Oxides are cosmetic-quality pigments that resist distortion when exposed to active lye i.e. the colour of the finished soap will be that of the oxide.
The colours tend to be natural, earthy shades and range from white (titanium dioxide) to black oxide. Oxides are concentrated colourants and should be used in small amounts. When adding oxides to your soap batch, the desired colour can be achieved by infusing the pigment in a portion of the oil. Alternatively a small amount can be whisked into the soap batch at trace. Start with 1g to a 454g (1lb) batch, adding a little more if a stronger colour is required.
As with ultramarines, oxide pigments are heavy and should not be added to potassium soap paste. Although it will successfully colour the paste, the pigment will separate on dilution and sink to the bottom. Water-based colours and natural dyes e.g. madder root are better for tinting liquid soap.
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The colours tend to be natural, earthy shades and range from white (titanium dioxide) to black oxide. Oxides are concentrated colourants and should be used in small amounts. When adding oxides to your soap batch, the desired colour can be achieved by infusing the pigment in a portion of the oil. Alternatively a small amount can be whisked into the soap batch at trace. Start with 1g to a 454g (1lb) batch, adding a little more if a stronger colour is required.
As with ultramarines, oxide pigments are heavy and should not be added to potassium soap paste. Although it will successfully colour the paste, the pigment will separate on dilution and sink to the bottom. Water-based colours and natural dyes e.g. madder root are better for tinting liquid soap.
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