A Young Riesling and an Old Cabernet

A few notes from not long ago, when I cooked up a simple dinner of pork chops, roasted potatoes and salad for a co-worker/pal and myself. Just for the heck of it, really, there was no occasion whatsoever. It was late – and a school night – so we didn’t go crazy opening stuff but did end up with a couple of interesting if oddly matched wines.


Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Carl Schmitt-Wagner 2005
Though I don’t do it nearly often enough, I love starting with a Mosel Kabinett as an aperitif. They carry the added benefit of being one of the few wine styles that actually work with, as opposed to begrudgingly sit with, the salad course. At first glance, this was muted, aside from a healthy dose of sulfur on the nose, and seemed poised to disappoint. Luckily, it became more and more interesting with time in the glass. Intensely apply, with ripe gala and golden delicious fruit, cut through by a vein of pungent, slate-laced minerality. Though not as nervy as I tend to like, it had a pleasantly round acid profile, soft yet still uplifting on the finish. Peach nectar and orange oil emerged on the mid-palate. Lovely if slightly simple aperitif-style Kabinett and a surprisingly good value in the increasingly expensive world of German wine. $16.50. 8.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: A Terry Theise Selection, Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon "Bates Ranch," Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard 1987
This was my dining buddy’s contribution, a cellar holdover from an earlier era. The label art, which surprisingly hasn’t changed much since 1987, actually makes the Schmitt-Wagner look new school. And the wine was correspondingly old school. Not unlike the Riesling, this started out a little muddy and unfocused, showing possible signs of being a little worse for wear. But like the Riesling, it opened up to reveal some definite interest. Wild red cassis fruit, a little bay leaf and black spice and a spine of rocky earth came to the fore. Tannins were fully resolved with acidity in good balance. On the off chance that you’re holding any of this, it’s definitely time to drink. But it remains a compelling example of hillside Santa Cruz Cabernet and a taunting reminder of times past. Just try to find 12.5% California Cab today…. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon from Bates Ranch and 5% Merlot from Bien Nacido Ranch, all dry farmed. Release price unknown; current vintage is $28 from winery. 12.5% alcohol. Cork.---------- Original content published at McDuff's Food & Wine Trail. All work copyright David McDuff and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NC-ND Works 3.0 Unported License.