Winemaker Close-Up: Doug Miles of Miles Wine Cellars

We met with Doug Miles, Miles Wine Cellars’ co-founder, owner, and winemaker, at his storied lakefront Greek revival mansion in Himrod, NY.  Doug and his dad spent nearly two decades renovating the 1802 estate, with Doug personally crafting or restoring the intricate woodwork, stairways, and moldings. His caring, diligent workmanship is also visible across the 60 acres of vineyards his family has been tending since the late 1970’s. Among the grapes are Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Lemberger, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

                    

We were keen to visit with Doug Miles because of his wine’s reputation, but the mansion’s reputation as a haunted house took center stage during our tour. Doug and his family not only believe the ghost story, they’ve seen the ghosts.  They’ve even produced a Ghost wine as a tribute to the spectral spirits. Yes, we think it’s a bit of a gimmick. And it was distracting from the purpose of our tour of the estate. But as soon as Doug brought us into the tasting room and started pouring the visit really kicked up a notch.

What We Tasted

2006 Cabernet Franc
Mocha-anise nose.  The wine was served a bit too warm for our taste, but the character came out with hints of creamy cocoa overtones, and lots of cherry-blackberry fruit.  The finish was somewhat abrupt though with some lasting minerality on the palate.

2006 Pinot Noir
Made in the Burgundy style.  Vanilla-caramel nose, light garnet color and creamy cherries and vanilla on the palate.  The finish was very dry, very French.

2002 Milestone – bought 1bottle
This is the winery’s flagship brew. The toasted oak/leather/tobacco nose was inviting enough, but the taste was the true payoff.  Deep plum & blackberry fruit balanced with hints of white pepper and spice.  The smooth tannins provided for a terrific long finish.  This is truly a well-crafted Meritage wine.  50% Cabernet Franc, 49.5 % Merlot and 0.5 % Cabernet Sauvignon.

2006 Chardonnay – bought 1 bottle
Light balance of fruit, oak, and acid.  Delicious.

N. V. Ghost
A slightly sweet white wine that’s a blend of Chardonnay and Cayuga, the Finger Lakes’ “home grown” varietal. Great on a hot summer afternoon as a “deck wine.”

Doug filled us in on some new wines to be released soon, including a Lemberger Port, a Sparkling Cabernet Franc, and ’07 Merlot.  No Massachusetts distribution yet—but you can buy Miles in Iowa, go figure—so we’ll look forward to sampling these new releases on our next New York visit.