Fashion Influential #54: Herminie Cadolle
Models on the runway during the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show held at the Kodak Theatre on November 16, 2006 in Hollywood, California. The show will be broadcast December 5, 2006 on CBS. (Getty Images)more pics » HERMINIE CADOLLE
Born:
1845 in France
Died:
1926 in France
Famous fans clients from the House of Cadolle:
Coco Chanel, Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton, Christina Onassis, Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardot
Beginnings.
Herminie Cadolle was a good friend of Louise Michel, who became infamous for her activism and participation in the French Commune. Because Cadolle was wary of being associated with Michel, she left her native France and relocated to Buenos Aires, where she opened a underwear store. In the shop she sold made-to-measure garments for each customer.
Career Highs.
When she returned to Paris in 1889, Cadolle launched another lingerie shop, which would become the esteemed House of Cadolle. She invented a two-piece device called a bien-être, which included a lower corset for the waist and an upper piece with shoulder straps to support the breasts. The latter was to become the modern-day bra. This revolution made Cadolle so popular that she became Paris's most renowned bra fitter, working with actresses and royals like Mata Hari.
A woman should have a set of screwdrivers, a cordless drill, and a black lace bra...
- Maya Angelou
A bien-être like those of Herminie Cadolle.Career Lows.
Although it was Cadolle who invented the modern-day bra, she generally doesn't get the credit she deserves. Most people think first of Mary Phelps Jacob, who got the patent for the term "brassiere." Some legends tell the (totally false) story that the garment was the brainchild of a man named Otto Titzling, who lost a lawsuit to Phlilip de Brassiere. Get it? Tit-sling, Fill up? Very clever, but it's just a sham.
Legacy.
This one is easy enough - luckily, nearly all women wear a bra under their clothes instead of a corset, thanks to Cadolle. But even more importantly, the House of Cadolle is still around, now led by Herminie's great-granddaughter Poupie Cadolle. It remains the most renowned (and pricey) custom fitting lingerie store in the world, with customers such as Catherine Zeta-Jones and Rita Wilson.
A model on the La Perla catwalk.Get the Look.
Lingerie fashion these days is becoming very prominent, with many historically sportswear designers trying their hands at underwear. Brands like Calvin Klein have crossed over into intimates, and La Perla still reigns as the top lingerie designer. The lesson: what's going on under your clothes is just as important as the clothes themselves, so have some fun. Get measured for a perfect fit, and choose something comfortable. Don't be afraid to branch out from basics into some fun textures and patterns.
- Olivia
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